There’s nothing better than watching the kids play ball in the backyard, especially when the “field” looks this good and you don’t have to mow it. We used Select Surfaces turf (the 15×40 rolls) to build a custom wiffleball field right in our yard, and it turned out amazing.

This tutorial breaks down every step we took to prep the base, seam the turf, and finish it off so it’s smooth, durable, and game-ready. All our measurements and costs are based on a smaller field with 35′ bases. True Wiffleball field regulations are 40′ bases.

Total Turf Dimensions: 36×36 for the square.

Materials & Tools for Your Wiffleball Field

• Select Surfaces Turf Rolls – 15′×40′ (2) and 15’x30′ (1) = $3244
• Seam tape + polyurethane seam glue + Artificial infill from local turf supplier $1400
• 6″ galvanized turf nails $170
• 3″ road base Geneva Rock delivered – $500
• Plate compactor 1 day Rental $80
• Landscape rake and screed board
• Turf kicker or carpet stretcher $100
• Utility knife & lots of blades
• Chalk line and measuring tape
• Power broom or stiff push broom 1 day rental $80
• 4 Cans Line Paint $44

1600 sq ft Turf Total DIY Cost: $5648
Professional Bid: $14,100

Step 1: Prep the Base

The tedious part of the entire install is leveling the dirt and spreading the road base out with a rake until it was all level. The easiest way we found to check if the road base was level was to take a sprinkler to it. If water was pooling in some areas, those were our low spots. Once we had everything mostly level we rented a compactor for a day and Lance went to town compacting everything.

1. Mark out your field area.
   Use spray paint, chalk, or even a garden hose to outline the shape of your field. We laid ours out in a rectangle slightly larger than the finished play area so we could trim the edges clean once everything was installed.
2. Spread 3 inches road base.
   This gives your turf the stability it needs to stay flat and drain properly. Spread it evenly with a landscape rake and screed board.
3. Water and compact.
   Lightly mist the base with a hose — not to soak it, just enough to help it settle — and then compact it using a plate compactor. You’ll want to do a couple passes in different directions until it feels solid and doesn’t move underfoot.
4. Check for level and slope.
   Your field should be smooth but have a slight slope (about 1–2%) so water drains naturally. Add or rake out base material where needed to fix low spots.

Tip: Spend the extra time here — every wrinkle or bump you see later starts at the base.

Install the Base Anchors

Each of the bases come with an anchor that stays permanently under the ground and allows you to pop and store your bases out while knowing exactly where they are supposed to go. These are the bases we ordered: 3 standard bases, home plate, pitchers plate.

We took some temporary landscape flags to help hold our string line from where we wanted home plate to 1st base. Then we dug down and buried the anchor in the road base. We repeated this from home plate to 3rd base with a string line. Lastly we took 2 string lines from 1st and 3rd base to meet at 2nd base.

Our bases are 35′ apart (regulation wiffleball is 40′).

Step 2: Roll Out and Position the Turf

Once your base is compacted, it’s time for the fun part — seeing that green go down.

1. Unroll your turf.
   Each roll of Select Surfaces turf is 15′×40′. Lay them all out in the sun for a bit so they relax and flatten. (we ended up ordering 3 rolls, with 1 roll being 15×30′ that we cut in half to fill in the last section. In hindsight we should have ordered (3) 15’x40′ so we’d have less seams.
2. Align the grain direction.
   Turf fibers lean slightly in one direction — make sure every roll faces the same way, or you’ll see color differences where they meet. You also want the shiny side away from the angle you look at it most.
3. Dry-fit each piece.
   Roll them into place and overlap slightly at the seams. Check that everything covers your area before trimming.
4. Trim to size.
   Use a sharp utility knife with hook blades to cut the edges. Leave about 3–6″ of extra material around the outside — you’ll trim that off later for clean edges.

Step 3: Seam the Turf Rolls Together

This is where the individual rolls become one seamless field.

1. Fold both edges back.
   Peel each side back about 12–18″ so you can see the base underneath.
2. Lay down seam tape.
   Center seam tape under the gap, shiny side up if your product calls for it. Tape should run the entire length of the seam.
3. Apply seam glue.
   Using a trowel or caulk gun, spread a consistent layer of turf glue down the center of the tape in a zig-zag pattern. Don’t go too heavy — just enough to coat evenly.
4. Lay the turf back down carefully.
   Bring both edges together so the rows of fibers “kiss” without overlapping. The goal is a tight, clean seam with no visible gap – about 1/8″ gap.
5. Weight it down.
   Once aligned, place some boards or sandbags on top while the glue cures (check your glue’s cure time — usually a few hours).
6. Check your seam direction.
   Step back and look from different angles. If you can see a visible line, adjust before the glue dries.

Pro tip: Work slowly here — you only get one shot while the glue’s wet.

Step 4: Secure the Turf with 6″ Nails

Instead of edging, we secured everything using turf nails — simple, clean, and effective.

1. Temporarily stretch the turf. We started on one side and went in a star pattern temporarily driving the nails 1/2 way down to remove any wrinkles in the turf. We used a carpet stretcher to push out the bubbles.
2. Start at the corners.
   Hammer in 6″ galvanized turf nails every 4–6 inches along the perimeter.
3. Move along the edges.
   Keep tension on the turf as you go so it stays flat and tight.
4. Hide the nails.
   As you install a nail, part the grass so you only see the black fabric and nail that in. This prevents grass from getting stuck in with the nails.

Step 5: Add Infill & Brush the Turf

The infill helps the turf fibers stand up and adds weight to keep everything in place.

1. Spread infill evenly.
   We used a non-sand turf infill (you can find it at most turf suppliers). Use a drop spreader or your hands to apply a light, even layer across the field.
2. Brush it in.
   Use a power broom or stiff push broom to work the infill down into the fibers. Brush in multiple directions so it settles evenly.
3. Repeat if needed.
   Depending on the turf pile height, you might need a second light coat. You’ll know you’re done when the blades stand upright and the infill isn’t visible on the surface.

Step 6: Trim & Finish

Now it’s just about making it look clean and game-ready.

1. Add your baselines or markings.
   We used a string line to mark out the foul ball lines from home to 1st and home to 3rd base and some scrap 16′ MDF trim to use as our template.
2. Play ball!
   Once everything’s groomed and set, you’re ready to play on your wiffleball field.

Want to see the IG Reels from this wiffleball field? Check them out by clicking the pictures below!

Other Blog Posts You May Like:

DIY Pickleball Court in Your Backyard
Backyard Sunken Fire Pit
DIY Backyard Builtin Traeger BBQ Kitchen
Transform Your Backyard Paradise: Refinishing a Yardistry Pergola